ART'S BREWING SUPPLIES

Text Box: HOMEBREW BITTERING UNITS=HBU'S HBU'S are a measure of the total amount of bitterness in a given volume of beer. Bittering units are calculated by multiplying the percent alpha acid in each type of hop by the number of ounces used. Boil time should remain the same to keep HBU's consistent batch to batch. Example for 5 gallon batch. 2 ounces of Cascade hops with 5% alpha add would be 10 H.B.U.'s per batch. (2x5=10). 1-1/2 ounces of Chinook hops with 12.5% alpha acid would be 18.75 H.B.U.'s per batch. (1.5X12.5=18.75). 1 ounce of Nugget hops with 13% alpha acid and 2 ounces of Willamette hops with 6% alpha acid would be 25 H.B.U.'s per batch(1X13=13)+(2X6=12)=25. BITTERING HOPS Boiling hops in the wort extracts the hard resins that gives beer its bitterness. We recommend that the wort be boiled 60 to 90 minutes for an efficient extraction, because it is very insoluble in water. This also helps with the hot break, for clarity. FINISH HOPS BOTH END OF BOIL & DRY Hop flavor & aroma are two different oils and are very soluble in water. To keep the flavor & aroma they have to be added at different times, and care should be taken not to boil them off & loose them! Hop flavor; Add l/2 to 3 oz. of hops to the wort from 0 to 5 minutes from the end of the boil. I add them the last 2 min. Hop aroma Single Stage brewers: Add 1/2 to 3 oz. of hops to fermenter after primary fermentation activity subsides. Reseal and allow hops to remain until bottling. Two Stage Brewers: Add 1/2 to 3 oz. of aromatic hops to the secondary fermenter before racking the beer from the primary fermenter. Secondary fermentation should last for at least 2 days to remove air. If not add more sugar to restart the fermentation(call for instructions). We would like to see the aroma hops in the beer for 5 to 7 days. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PRIMARY & SECONDARY FERMENTATION. Primary & Secondary fermentation are all part of the same fermentation. The primary lasts(usually) from 1 to 3 days and is extremely active. Before it starts you can see sediment at the bottom of the fermenter, once it starts fermenting it will kick it up into solution & you won't see it at the bottom. Once the sediment falls back down and the bubbles through the air lock are slower, that is an indication of the start of the secondary. The start of the secondary fermentation is the time to rack, dry hop, or both. If it doesn't continue to bubble through the air lock after racking it is very dangerous(there is air on your beer). Boil a small amount of sugar in a small amount of water to start the fermentation again and remove the air(CO2 is heavier).

Text Box: art’s brewing supplies 642 South washington street Salt Lake City, Utah 84101 Phone: 1-801-533-8029

Sanitation is the most important part of brewing! You can not sterilize anything until it is clean! Manual cleaning(hot water and elbow grease) is only part of the cleaning. Once it is spotless by manual cleaning you should chemically clean your equipment. Beer stone is a calcium deposit. Which I think when dissolved would produce a mixture that is below a 7 PH. To remove it you should use a caustic cleaner, then sterilize. This process should be done after you use your equipment, not just before you use it again! If it has been kept clean, then just before using the equipment again you should sterilize it again. You should not sterilize and clean in the same step!

STERILANTS & CLEANERS

SEASONINGS

IODINE (1 / 2 oz. per 5 gal. our best sterilant)	4 oz-$4.00	1qt-$15.00
CIPTON(cleaner our best low phosphates)do not use on aluminum, coper, or brass).p Use 1 to 4 ounces per gallon of water. Soak 1.5 hour at temperatures up to boiling	1/2 gal.-$14.00	1 gal.-$24.00
B-BRITE (sterilant or cleaner-oxygen base)	lb.	$5.00
ONE STEP (cleaner-oxygen base)	lb.