The Bear 100 Miler - 2008
Back in 1998,
when Leland Barker first talked to Ron Stagg about putting on a
100-miler in the mountains above Logan, Utah, it became a labor of
love. Leland planned a route along his favorite running trails,
which
traversed some of the most scenic locations in northern Utah.
But when Leland approached the forest
service with his plan, he got a
firm but courteous “No, thanks.” Leland cast around for other venues,
and the southern Idaho loop course for the Bear 100 was born.
The old course served us well.
It even survived a huge snowstorm that
forced last-minute course changes, and through it all produced
successful race after successful race. Through it all a
top-notch
cadre of volunteers and emergency management and communications experts
built themselves into a team ready to support the runners for every
mile.
But through all this Leland still
looked with fondness on his favorite
training runs. After the 2006 Snow Bear he approached the forest
service again about a Logan to Bear Lake route. At first they
said no,
but when told about the requirement that each runner give eight hours
of volunteer time for the forest, they relented. It was that
easy.
In one moment the fruits of giving back to forest were
realized. We
were a go! I thought Leland had really pulled a rabbit out of his
hat
this time.
This was last Spring. Now came the
hard part. It was like starting
over again. As the webmaster and mapper of the race, I needed new
maps
and lots of info to get out to the runners. Starting in June I
repeatedly travelled the three hours to Logan and Bear Lake to gather
GPS data on course. One early July morning Leland picked me up at
the
finish to drive me back to mile 69—I would run to the finish. He
didn’t tell me that I would need to cross the Logan River, still flush
with snowmelt. As he pulled up to the river bank, Leland said,
“Hmmm.
I don’t think it will be this high on race day.” I asked him if
there
was a way across. “Nope. Guess you’ll have to wade.”
The air
temperature was about 40, and the river was colder than that. I
asked
Leland to wait until I crossed to make sure I didn’t fall in and die of
hypothermia. He just smiled and stroked his beard as I cursed my
way
through with numb feet.
More adventures like this—including
full dips into creeks on hot
days—awaited as I mapped trail after trail. Kelly Bradbury was my
guide for many beautiful miles of unbelievable terrain. I had run
the
old course seven times, but this course—wow! It was far more
crew-friendly, it had open vistas and secluded hollows, and it was more
runnable but had more climb than the old course. I was impressed.
As race day approached we continued to
tweak the course to get it as
close to 100 miles as possible. (I use professional GPS equipment and
computer modeling to create maps and measure distance). Some last
minute changes got us to 99.8 miles, which we thought was good enough.
(Always the tweaker, I think we can get it 100.00 next year.
There are
ways . . . .).
Now the runners would have to weigh in
on a summer’s worth of work.
The weather on race day was fantastic. The week before had
seen a
fair amount of rain, which knocked down any dust. Race day would
bring
above-normal temperatures and brilliant blue skies.
Leland and I left an hour early to
make sure the trail was well-marked.
The rest of the runners were given a treat in the first few hours
as a
high deck of clouds kept the temps down as they crossed from Logan Peak
over to Leatham Hollow. Nate McDowell and Ty Draney held the lead
through this stretch. The fall colors were brilliant all day as
we
ascended and descended Leatham Hollow, Richards Hollow, Ricks Hollow
(the “bee run”), and Willow Hollow. On the tops you could see
forever,
and in the hollows a riot of green, gold and red surrounded you.
In Willow Hollow the sun took its
toll. With the temps so far above
normal, the canyon became really hot, and this turned out to be a
three-bottle stretch. This was even more true when descending
Temple
Fork, with the afternoon sun beating down directly on the trail, with
no tree cover.
After Temple Fork, though, Blind
Hollow was a cool relief. Although it
climbed nearly 3,000 feet to Tony Grove Lake (mile 52), it began to
cool down—fast. Here the women’s winner, Kim Gimenez,
caught me,
motoring up the mountain. She commented on how well the trail was
marked. I hoped that we had done so well with marking the entire
way.
Tony Grove Lake was all we hoped it
would be for an aid station. Here
a crew could relax by the lake or even fish as they waited for their
runner at the end of a paved road in a mountain amphitheater. This lake
is one of Utah’s most scenic destinations, and it did not disappoint on
race day.
I lost the sun descending White Pine
Hollow from Tony Grove, and had no
problem following the glow sticks into the next aid station. This
was
a difficult stretch to mark because of braided cow trails in large open
meadows, and I was concerned that it be well-marked. I could see
that
Leland had been taking 6-inch bits of flagging from his pack and
dropping them on the trail (we call these “Leland poops”). These
worked well.
I was worried about the next stretch,
Steam Mill Canyon. Two critical
junctions, neither of them intuitive, were on this stretch, and I had
really tried to hammer home how not to get lost on this stretch in the
race directions. The first crucial junction was flagged, but not
glowsticked. Damn! Not much I could do about that.
(An absolutely
brilliant veteran ultrarunner had marked this stretch, but in daylight
and for the first time, on a bike that proved unequal to the task.
First time blues.) As I went on I saw that the next critical
junction
was marked perfectly. Check. Soon I came to the Steep
Hollow road,
where I saw Ron Stagg in his old Landcruiser. Apparently some guy
on a
horse had taken offense at the race flagging and tore it all down.
Ron
was re-flagging the road. This plagued us all over the course.
More
first time blues.
The next aid station was manned by the
old Mill Creek aid station.
Those guys had a reputation to uphold. This year it was
Dutch oven
sweet and sour chicken, and amazing rolls. Soon afterwards came
the
Logan River crossing, this time much easier (kept my feet dry).
Another difficult-to-mark stretch awaited in Peterson Hollow,
where
there were more cow braids. We picked the most likely trail, but some
were frustrated by being on a different braid and not seeing any
comfort flagging. Another critical junction was nicely
glowsticked
ahead, though, and that made up for the frustrating braids.
After summiting Peterson Hollow we
descended a rocky horse trail down
to the ski lodge at Beaver Creek. Here’s where things got a
little
interesting. The runners were supposed to take a cutoff 200 yards
before the trailhead in Sink Hollow, go right through the woods, then
on to a paved road, and up to the lodge. Then they would leave
the
lodge on a trail, and bear back toward Sink Hollow (which climbed to
Gibson Basin). Two problems. First, some runners could see in the
distance the glowstick at the trailhead (which actually guided runners
up Sink Hollow, after they had left the ski lodge), and made for it.
Second, the lodge was under construction, so two days before the
race
we had to scramble to relocate the aid station to a yurt nearby.
Most
runners managed just fine through all this, but some got turned around
either by the glowstick in the distance at the cutoff or the fact that
the flagging and glowsticks from the yurt could have been better
placed. Hopefully next year we will be in the lodge and the whole
thing will be a lot more intuitive. First time blues, again.
After the lodge I marched up Sink
Hollow to Gibson Basin. I had left
Brian Beckstead in Steam Mill, and then saw a couple of other friends
(Christian --, paced by Peter “Yoda” Lindgren) pass me at the top of
Peterson, but now I was quite alone in the woods on a moonless night.
In a field of 85 you can be pretty spread out by mile 75. The
stars
were incredible. The temperatures on the ridges were balmy, but
here,
in a hollow next to a stream, I was glad for my light pants and shell.
The Gibson Basin aid station was a
welcome sight, but not a place to
linger. I pressed on, soon joining the old Bear course for the
six or
so miles it has in common with the new course. After the Beaver
Creek
aid station I started the final and highest climbs of the race, both up
to just over 9,000 feet. True to form, the temperature warmed as
I
climbed, and soon I saw the first hint of light over the Bear Lake
Valley in the east. At this point, High Top, I could look down at
the
lake to see where I was going, and back over to Logan Peak to see from
where I had travelled. This is part of the magic of a
point-to-point
hundred. There is nothing like scale and grandeur.
As the grey light of dawn caught me I
reached Ranger Dip aid station.
This was a short stop and nice “hiya!” with my friend Jeff
LaMora,
and then up the 20% grade of the Ranger Dip liftoff. While some
think
this 700-foot climb is brutal, I didn’t mind it, compared with how my
feet would feel during the 3000-foot six-mile descent on the other
side. And that descent was, indeed, brutal. It teased you
for a
couple of miles by being gradual, and then hit you on the head with a
rocky two-by-four as you basically fell off the mountain. The
amazing
sunrise took the edge off the pain, but I didn’t remember it being this
hard back in July, even with damp feet. Finally I hit the canyon
access road and arrived at the finish of my eighth Bear 100 (seventh in
a row).
At the finish I discovered that my
Wyoming friend Ty Draney had gotten
himself a blue ribbon. Ty and Nate played tag for much of the race, but
Ty finally came out on top, with a stellar 19:59 finish. We are
crediting him with a course record since it technically is a new
course. Kim Gimenez made it look easy with a time of 26:16:45 to
take
the women’s title. Tim Seminoff finished an amazing tenth Bear in
a
row to become the grand pooh-bah Bear Streaker. Tim had hurt his
back
just the week before and walked the whole thing—tough as nails.
There
were – Rocky Mountain Slammers: Cory Johnson, Tom Remkes, Daniel
Benhammou, and --. And finally, Stan Beutler, who started the Bear in
the inaugural 1999 race, finally finished it, with a time of 9
yrs:31:46.
As an assistant race director I try to
ask what this year’s takeaway
is. Well, it certainly was not a typical year. We basically
started
over. Our excellent communications and emergency team, led by
Warren
Wilde, seamlessly took over the new course. It was as if nothing
had
changed, and the fact that no one said anything about commo was just
what we wanted. Check.
Web updating during the race worked
perfectly this year. Check.
Aid stations were well-stocked and
professional, except for an inevitable glitch (to be fixed next year).
Check.
Leland, Errol and I once again ran the
race, and insisted on the race
being a gathering of friends rather than a celebrity show. Check.
Course marking. . . . Well, we
understand that we have a bit of a
reputation here, some of it deserved, most of it not. In
the early
years course marking on the old course was a bit sparse, and in later
years was actually quite good. We hit it aggressively this year,
but
have determined, after hearing all of the runners’ comments, that three
crucial areas needed more glowsticks (not flagging—there was plenty of
that, but hard to see at night. Ty, for example, who ran much of
the
course in the daylight, did not understand what the trouble was at
several intersections where other runners struggled). We also
plan to
deal with sabotage by using other methods (flour, chalk, shredded
paper) and through community awareness. We are painfully aware of
marking issues—after all, they caused Errol, an asst RD, to DNF.
Yeah,
we run, so we know what challenges y’all face.
So, all in all, we think we pulled a
rabbit out of a hat. Only, it turned out to be a Bear.
Phil Lowry