GENERAL INTRODUCTION

        Because of the long and hot dry summers in our area, some special changes must be made to the instructions found in the standard books on bonsai care:

     • A coarser soil mix is used here to aid drainage, depending on the needs of the plant involved, 50-75% of the mix being 1/8" to 1/4" decomposed granite (1/4 minus) or chicken grit or pea gravel.  Excess water trapped in a pot can easily reach temperatures over 100 F -- just in the shade.  This coarser soil mix prevents the rootball from being cooked during the middle of our summers.  The balance of the mix is some personal blend of potting soil, cactus mix, redwood bark, compost, peat moss, etc. which may be screened/sieved to remove dust-size particles.  If the roots haven't grown much by the next repotting, you'll need to increase the amount of  granite in the mix.  A quarter of the grit could be replaced with perlite.

     • The re-potting of plants and pruning of roots is done less frequently, say every two to five years.  This puts less strain on the plants in our challenging climate.  Repot in the shade, out of the wind and preferably on a day with a dew point of at least 30 degrees.  Mist the rootball if it will be out of the pot for any length of time.  Include a little of the original soil in the new soil mix to inoculate it with needed microorganisms.

     • Pots that are slightly deeper or wider than is traditionally prescribed are used here.  Still aesthetically pleasing, these allow more room and insulation for the roots.  Also, consider using mica composite pots to help keep the roots a little cooler.

     • Watering is more frequent, especially with the very low humidity of the pre-monsoon days.  While the coarser soil mix holds less water, it is better for the trees because there is less possibility of the roots rotting from excess water in the soil.  Some members have had good results using reverse osmosis (R.O.) system water.  Whatever kind is used, apply thoroughly so that run-off comes out of the drainage holes.  Then don’t water again, depending on the type of plant, local weather, and the time of year, until the top portion of the soil is dry.  Let tap water sit 24 hours before using it.

    If a tree has wilted leaves, put it in the shade and give it a little water.  Give a little more water later that day.  Let the roots recover slowly -- don’t drown them.

    Full to half-strength diluted fertilizer is used regularly throughout the growing seasons. Alternate between organic blends and synthetic formulations, and include the micronutrients.  Give occasional foliar feedings during cooler times.  Nitrogen from a urea source is more slowly released, less likely to burn.

    Take an old toothbrush or wire brush to the drainage holes of your pots at least once a year.  Kedp that drainage flowing!  Also, brush the top layer of soil at least once a year to break up the salt buildup that could cause water to run off instead of sinking in.

    Young/undeveloped bonsai deserve time in a growing bed or large training pot. Putting in a display pot prematurely will greatly slow their initial development.

    Despite the “all-at-once” creation sometimes shown in our demonstrations, it is less stressful to your trees if you prune, repot, and wire them at different and appropriate times.  Many "all-at-once" demo trees over the years actually died within a year because they were too stressed over a short period of time.  Nowadays, we generally give them a chance to heal between the different major steps.  Take the time to study and learn the rhythms of each plant.  Enjoy.

    Keep some form of log or record on the care, fertilizing, pruning, and growth of each of your trees.  Talk to other club members, read the books and magazines, attend workshops and shows, and study full-grown trees of all shapes.